2008-09-29T08:11:54Z
Dave Pawson.
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Let them eat cake! Brioche recipe - Julia Childs
This last weekend I finished reading Julia Childs 'My life in France', a partially autobiographical book about her escapades in cooking. My son bought it to kill time after a cancelled flight back to the UK. Good old BA, he'd finished it by the time he arrived. Anyway, she writes quite well and tempted me to get hold of her cookbook... which I haven't. As an interim I asked Google about Brioche, though why I picked that out I really don't know. She mentions in her book that she found quite a few variants on the recipe and that's exactly what I found. I did find a CBS video with Julia in it, though it appears she is a spectator rather than the recipes author. Anyway, I decided to have a go.
This is the result. Half the dough mix (the rest
is in the fridge waiting inspiration). I wanted to start plain,
as that was the abiding memory of brioche in France. Most
recipes utilise the mix as a container or wrapper, or decorate
it with sugars and nuts.
The problems started with metrics. I'm no cook and converting
from cups and sticks to Imperial or Metric was the first
hurdle. The yeast suddenly becomes a sponge? What?
That's a cake isn't it? The UK 'clingfilm' is transported into
'Saran wrap'. I had that as a poisen used in Japans metro system
by terrorists. Butter comes in sticks. Does it? Luckily between
Google and my son and his American wife, I translated it all and
came up with a recipe. Rich is a fair description. About a pound
of flour (which one! French is different to UK and to US
flour). I settled on Allisons bread flour, it served us well as
newly weds, when we made our own bread for a good number of
years. The bags say nothing of bleach and gluten levels. The US
flour names equated to the UK 'plain' flour, again after some
searching. Only one recipe suggested bread flour, which somehow
felt right to me. In my bread making days (OK, our), we used to
use live yeast and vitamin C tablets, which reduced the prep
time requiring knocking back only once, rather than twice. All
the recipes nominated dried yeast and all require knocking back
twice. Oh. guilty of the same annoyance? Let it rise, then
'knock it back', i.e. pummel it back to its smaller
size. Yorkshire expression perhaps. My grandma used to make
bread for a fairly large family. She used a stone... 14lbs of
flour at a time. She always recommended a warm kitchen in which
to do it. Her oven bottom cake still makes my mouth water. The
brioche recipes seem to want to bake in the arctic. Let it
rise. Knock it back. Put it in the fridge, for four to six
hours, or overnight! One or two offered half a reason
for this change which made some sense, so I followed the
advice. The result was that the loaf went in the oven around
nine p.m., when I'd started baking (went out to buy flour) at
9:30 a.m. It took simply ages to rise once out of the
fridge. Even more odd was the gloop that came out of the
mixer. My advice would be to not attempt this without a fairly
sturdy electric mixer. Ours is a Kenwood Chef approaching forty
years old. Well up to scratch, yet the motor was decidedly warm
when I scraped the mix out. I've never seen a mix like it! Shiny
surface, beautiful yellow/white colour and sticky as hell. They
all ask for a slapping sound with the mix stuck to the dough hook,
although I don't think I heard that, so I simply stuck to 15
minutes mixing! I'll post the recipe later, but after breakfast
this morning (let them have bread indeed) I can say it was worth
it. . Even texture, light and very tasty!
Keywords: brioche
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